We had been hankering for some good barbecue so Friday night we decided to try out Hickory Hollow, a barbecue joint best-known for its east-Carolina style barbecue. Hickory Hollow is located in Ellenton, a small town north of Sarasota that's best known for its outlet mall. A few months ago, Hickory Hollow made USA Today's list of the Top 10 barbecue joints in the U.S.
Now, I don't know how USA Today compiled their list and maybe we just caught Hickory Hollow at the wrong time, but after our visit last Friday this isn't a place I would put on any Top 10 list. While the 'cue was tasty and the vast selection of 25-plus side items was a neat surprise, the service was poor and the atmosphere (what is the deal with butterfly decorations all over the walls in a barbecue place?) was just average. Overall, I didn't dislike Hickory Hollow, but I wouldn't drive out of my way for it. It's okay if you're already in the area.
I ordered the east-Carolina style pork with cheese squash and creamed spinach as my two sides, while my fiancee Traci went with smoke turkey, roasted corn and steak fries. Both meals came with delicious corn fritters. I was happy with the pork and the squash, but the creamed spinach was missing something. Traci's turkey was very good.
While the food was above average, it was overshadowed by the poor service from the moment we walked in the door. We've eaten at lots of barbecue joints and these aren't the kind of places where you expect to find award-winning service, but that doesn't mean we should feel like we're bothering the waitstaff for eating there.
The level of service was night and day between Hickory Hollow and our visit to Newberry's Backyard Bar-B-Q a few weeks ago. I am still looking for an excuse to go back up to Gainesville to eat there again. While Hickory Hollow didn't knock my socks off, I still have high hopes for reader-suggested Big John's Barbecue in Tampa and First Choice in Brandon. Both are on my list. I still think Jimbo's on Kennedy is a good choice for 'cue in a pinch.
Bottom-line: Good food was overshadowed by poor service with the net-result being I can't see myself eating there again unless I already happen to be shopping in Ellenton and am in need of a major barbecue fix.
Inspection Scorecard: Last Inspection: April 2006 violations- Critical (4), Non-Critical (1).